Vienna, 5 August 2024 – A new global YouGov poll shows over a quarter of people (27%) now avoid animal-based fashion, while only four per cent of rated fashion brands have published clear reduction commitments for animal-derived materials (ADMs). Meanwhile approximately five billion animals are at risk of severe suffering for clothing items, due to routine mutilations and poor husbandry, or being killed directly for products made of fur. In response, global animal welfare organisation FOUR PAWS has launched – the “Wear It Kind Directory” – which compiles results for the reduction and refinement of ADMs of over 200 international fashion brands. Although positive progress has been made by many brands such as Ganni, Everlane and Stella McCartney, the road to more kindness in the closet is still a long one. For example, 61% of brands must do more to credibly exclude the use of live-plucked feathers. Over a third of shoppers (36%) said they will choose one brand over the other if it prioritises animal welfare. The FOUR PAWS Directory empowers consumers to understand how fashion brands perform on animal welfare and encourages companies to urgently step up their animal welfare commitments.

In April 2024 FOUR PAWS commissioned a public opinion poll conducted by the renowned market research institute YouGov among almost 11,000 shoppers in twelve countries*. The results show that a vast majority of people are concerned about the treatment of animals in global fashion production. Of highest (81%) concern is about the usage of fur, followed by down feather (59%) and wool (33%). Fur accounts for one of the cruelest ADMs with foxes, raccoons and other wild animals permanently confined, and brutally slaughtered. The new Wear It Kind Directory shows four out of five brands (82%) have luckily already publicly banned fur, however there are many brands who are yet to make a public statement.

Gruesome and unknown: Live lamb cut wool

The Directory also closely examines how brands are mitigating the risks of live lamb cutting (also known as mulesing), the cruel procedure where palm-sized pieces of skin and flesh are cut off more than ten million lambs’ buttocks per year. Impressively over half (54%) of brands have made a timebound commitment to use only certified live lamb cut free wool, with 13% selling wool claiming to be fully certified. Leading the charge are brands such as The North Face, Icebreaker, ALLSAINTS, Columbia Sportswear’s prAna, and Reformation.

Kind purchases on the rise                  

According to the poll every second adult (50%) say companies should give animal protection equal priority to environmental protection and social standards (working conditions). Over a fifth (22%) of adults said they currently seek out or purchase fashion items with animal welfare credentials, whereas more than every fourth (27%) person has decided to avoid animal-derived fashion all together.

“While many companies listed within the Wear It Kind Directory have made progress towards better animal welfare, most brands have not done enough to reduce their use of animal-derived materials, despite consumer demand for animal-free fashion. This is especially concerning as animal agriculture continues to expand and intensify when it urgently needs to decline if we are to meet global animal welfare and environmental goals.” says Medcalf. 

Reduction calls for innovation 

A reduction of ADMs is not only a critical step to minimise severe animal welfare infringements, but also to address fashion’s carbon and land use footprint, as a previous report by FOUR PAWS points out. According to the YouGov poll the majority (81%) of interviewees across the planet, agree that fashion brands should reduce the use of ADMs and invest in alternatives to transition to sustainable animal-friendly material alternatives such as recycled or plant-based materials.

The Wear It Kind Directory 

The Wear It Kind Directory is a digital database that will allow consumers to better understand fashion brands commitments and progress across four key animal welfare areas within their fashion supply chains: the use and avoidance of live lamb cutting (mulesing) in wool supply chains, live plucking in down and feather supply chains, the use of fur and the reduction of animal-derived materials (ADMs) overall. The Directory does not provide an overall brand ranking and does not consider a brand’s entire use of animal-derived materials. However, by increasing transparency and measuring progress across key areas, FOUR PAWS can encourage brands to achieve targeted lasting change for animals on the ground.

Methodology 

FOUR PAWS has rated the brands against a set of traffic light indicators according to their action on fur, live lamb cutting (wool), live plucking (down) and on the overall reduction of ADMs in their supply chains. For fur use, the decisive factor for a maximum positive rating (dark green) within this category was if the brand prohibits the use of fur and has signed up to the international Fur Free Retailer program. For live plucking FOUR PAWS considered if the brand could trace its materials back to their origin, including their parent farms, if the brand has ceased its use of virgin down towards recycled and animal-free alternatives or no longer uses down at all. For live lamb cutting, the highest rating was achieved if 100 per cent of wool is live lamb cut-free and certified, or if the brand does not use wool at all. A red rating was given to brands that had not yet taken any steps towards refining their supply chains on particular issues, or reducing ADMs.

• The Wear it Kind Directory can be accessed here.
• The YouGov poll can accessed here.

*The global opinion poll was conducted online between 3 – 18 April 2024 in twelve countries: Australia, Austria, Bulgaria, France, Germany, Italy, Netherlands, South Africa, Spain, Switzerland, United Kingdom and United States. The figures have been weighted and are representative of all country adults (aged 18+). Brands included in the Wear It Kind Directory are from across the world, but primarily from Europe and the US. 

**FOUR PAWS categorised the use of certified down to mitigate live plucking at a lower action level than the use of certified wool to mitigate live lamb cutting. Supply chains for down are at a higher risk of the focal animal welfare issue being unmitigated. In recent years several investigations have indicated that major issues persist within down supply chains.